Bringing home a new puppy is truly one of life's joys. Thoughtful pre-puppy preparations and a well-planned first 24 hours can give your fuzzy bundle of promise a head start and make your dreams of the perfect family dog come true.
Before the Big Day
Once household discussions have established that everyone wants a dog of a certain age and breed, where to get the pup -- from a shelter or reputable breeder -- is more or less determined. Now, family meetings should cover scheduling
Who will take the pup to the papers or backyard and when?
Who will be in charge of feedings?
Who will make veterinary appointments for vaccinations and de-worming?
Also, take time to create a vocabulary list everyone will use. If Mom says "down" when Puppy climbs on the couch, Dad says "down" when he wants him to lie down and Junior utters "sit down" when he expects the pup's rear to hit the floor, the result will be one confused dog! Putting the schedule and vocabulary list in writing prevents confusion and will help dog walkers, nannies and others involved in raising Puppy.
Next, draft a shopping list and purchase supplies: food and water bowls, chew toys, grooming supplies, bedding, collar and leash, identification tag, crate, gate and odor neutralizer. Pre-puppy shopping allows you to order from wholesale catalogs or visit the pet superstore in the next county without the pressure of Puppy needing it right now.
You'll need to puppy-proof the area where the youngster will spend most of his time the first few months. This may mean taping electrical cords to baseboards, storing household chemicals on high shelves, removing plants, rugs and breakables, setting up the crate and installing gates. Once you think you've completely puppy-proofed, lay on the floor and look around once more to get a puppy's eye view.
If you have children, hold one last meeting to lay down the rules: Don't overwhelm Pup the first day, and don't fight over him or create mob scenes showing him to the neighborhood. Now you're off to get Puppy.
Getting Off on the Right Paw
When you pick up your pup, remember to ask what and when he was fed. Replicate that schedule for at least the first few days to avoid gastric distress. If you wish to switch to a different brand, do so over a period of about a week by adding one part new brand to three parts of the old for several days; then switch to equal parts, and then one part old to three parts new.
From the start, consistency is important. On the way home, Puppy should ride in the back seat, either in one person's arms or, preferably, in a crate or carrier.
Once home, folks who plop the excited newcomer on the Oriental and let the kids chase him will be mopping up in no time -- and regretting the lesson they taught their new pup. Instead, take him to his toileting area immediately.
From there, carry out your schedule for feeding, toileting, napping and play/exercise. From Day One, your pup will need family time and brief periods of solitary confinement. Solitude may be new to Puppy, so he may vocalize concern. Don't give in and comfort him or you may create a monster. "Gee, if making noise brought them running once, maybe more whimpering is needed to get their attention again," reasons the pup. Give him attention for good behavior, such as chewing on a toy or resting quietly.
Doing things correctly from the start prevents confusion. Through puppy preparedness, you are one step closer to your Dream Dog.
Puppy Care
Puppies 6 to 12 weeks old need to be fed four times a day.
Puppies 3 to 6 months old need to be fed three times a day.
Puppies 6 to 12 months old need to be fed two times a day.
Puppies need to "go to the bathroom" after each meal. They should be taught where to go (on paper, in the backyard, etc.). They should be brought there on a leash so they get there quickly. No side trips should be made en route. Puppies should get praise each and every time they go to the bathroom in the right place.
Puppies under 7 weeks of age are unable to learn. They cannot carry memory from one day to the next. New owners should be aware of this fact and not attempt to teach a puppy specific tasks and then discipline him when he fails.
Puppies who are 6 to 20 weeks old are in a specific developmental stage. This period of socialization is critical in the formation of the pup's personality. It is imperative that the pup not be left for long periods of time and isolated from the family (stuck down in the basement or behind closed doors). If a puppy has the constant companionship of another dog during this stage, he will become dog-oriented rather than people-centered. If this happens, training the pup will be quite difficult.
When a dog under 6 months of age is left alone for long periods of time (more than five hours) with a bowl of food and water, chances are good that he will have to go to the bathroom. Unless the pup is housed in such a way so that he cannot make a mistake, he will "go" wherever he pleases and get neither praise or a reprimand when he does go. Isolation in a unresponsive environment (no immediate feedback) makes it difficult for a pup to learn right from wrong, prolongs house soiling and promotes destructive chewing.
Dogs under 3 months of age should be considered infants. They need tremendous amounts of care and attention. Dogs between 3 and 6 months of age are juveniles who need constant supervision. Left to themselves, dogs will be dogs, and in most instances this is less than desirable (house soiling, destructive chewing, excessive barking and biting) when the dog is living in close quarters with humans in an urban environment.
Living with Dogs and Cats
I'm not sure where the adage "fighting like cats and dogs" comes from, but in the vast majority of homes I'm acquainted with, dogs and cats share living quarters quite amiably. In fact, it is more difficult to introduce a second female cat or a second male dog to the household than it is a member of the other species.
There are exceptions, of course. Trying to socialize stray cats that border on feral presents a serious health risk to resident dogs, even friendly ones. Dogs who have a strong prey drive (the desire to catch, shake and kill) put the family cat in danger.
To make a successful inter-species introduction in the average household, one needs little more than a dog who understands a few rudimentary commands and a sturdy baby gate. A canine who has learned to respond to a basic vocabulary that includes "leave it," "down" and "come" can most likely be controlled around a new cat indoors. Outdoors is another matter completely. Many otherwise cat-friendly dogs see outdoor cats as prey to be chased down and dispatched -- a strong case for keeping cats indoors!
If the dog lacks basic manners or is the newcomer to the household, a four-foot house leash and buckle collar can give the caretaker control over the situation. As the dog rushes past in a raucous game of "catch the cat," step on the end of the leash. When the leash becomes taught and the dog turns to look at you, utter your "sit" or "down" command. After the dog complies, don't forget to praise him. When the mere thought of chasing the cat passes through his mind, growl "leave it" at him and praise him once again when he looks away from the cat.
The baby gate provides the cat with dog-free territory. A nervous feline can hop over the gate and find a safe haven. A food bowl left behind the gate will be left untouched by canine muzzles. A litter box left behind the gate will have cat feces right where they were left. Before crying, "Ugh, how tasteless!" anticipate the dog's response, "How tasty!" and prepare for it.
For some, a gate will not be viable. In those cases, creative thinking will play a crucial role in household management. Is your bathtub tall and your dog small? If so, then a litter box at one end and a food dish at the other will meet your needs. A covered litter box prevents thievery in some cases. Beware! More than one dog has gotten his head caught in the box cover and then run around frantically in an attempt to get it off. In one unfortunate case, the cat was in the litter box when the dog got the cover stuck on his head. (If you were that cat, would you be running to the litter box the next time nature called? I think not!)
If you own your own home, there are more creative options open to you. Some folks cut cat-sized openings in linen closet doors or bathroom vanities as a way to keep Bowser out of the litter box and the box itself out of view.
As for alternative feeding stations, counter tops and wide window sills can provide out-of-reach dining spots for felines. Cat food and dog food are not interchangeable. Much research has gone into developing specialized foods for cats and dogs. Keeping your pets out of each other's bowls is even more crucial if any of them are on prescription foods for allergies, obesity or health problems.
With a little forethought, a home occupied by both dogs and cats is a joy, a living example of The Peaceable Kingdom.
